We’ve compiled a glossary of salon terminologies used in salons to help educate our clients on the services and products we offer.
Backcombing hair before colouring it is to defuse and soften the demarcation line where natural hair meets the lightened hair. This technique is used often with Balayage, Foilyage and Highlighting services.
Balayage is the technique used to create a gradual and natural by freehand painting lightener on the hair and is left to process open-air or wrapped in Saran Wrap. Stylists will often add backcombing to each section before applying the lightener to add softness. This will be a service that gets lighter and more dimensional the more times the service is done to clients. This result leaves the overall look more natural and sun-kissed. Not recommended for dark hair clients that are looking to be more than 3 levels lighter than their natural base, the best effects will be seen on blondes, medium to light brown hair, and redheads.
Balayage is a hair painting technique which is perfect for those low maintenance clients or for clients who are just starting to colour their hair and looking for something subtle and natural. The lightener is swept on to the hair in a free-form way and the lightener is concentrated at ends rather than roots. It is also usually left to process open and not covered. The balayage technique is more bespoke and tailored to the individual’s needs. It’s perfect for those who are naturally quite fair and want to enhance their natural tones or for those who want some grey blending. Clients usually get their balayage done every 3-4 months, a toner between services can help stop the hair from going brassy in between balayage services.
The hair cut is usually achieved with the use of a clipper (machine to cut hair) on the sides, either by using clipper guards (1,2,3,4…etc) This gives a much closer cut on the sides to get to a skin fade or fade cut. A few names used in a barbershop to describe barber cuts are the following:
- Caesar Cut
- Buzz Cut
- Skin Fade
- Fade (low to high fade, Crew Cut, and much more.
With barbered haircuts, clients usually come in the salon around every 10 to 14 days for a cut.
Hair becomes over-processed due to the overuse and strength of the Lightner and developer used to lighten the hair. At this point in our industry colour lines have created much stronger Powder Lighteners and Cream Lighteners that can lift hair 7-9 levels with only one application. This is an amazing tool to have in the salon but is easily miss used. Once the hair is lightened the porosity of the hair increases because of the cuticle layer being opened and exposed because of the Lightener, and this is why and how the hair lightens.
Hair looks dull because of the film left behind from the water used to wash your hair. Just like the film on your shower walls and windows, this film requires a specific cleansing shampoo to remove build-up without drying hair out. We recommended the use of Malibu Shampoos.
Foilyage is the technique used to create more of a dramatic result than a traditional balayage look. Stylists will often backcomb each section before applying the lightener to add soften. Lightener is applied to the hair in a similar “painting” sweeping motion like balayage to allow for a soft and gradual transition of lightness. Foil is used for each section to help separate, contain and to provide warmth for the lightener in return will lighten hair up to 5-7 levels of lift in one sitting. This does vary due to what level of colour your hair is and if there is pre-existing artificial colour.
A Foilyage service can range from 3-6+ hours service depending on the density of hair.
Highlights and Lowlights
Foil highlighting is a technique using foil to separate desired hair strands using either baby-lights, slices or weaves of thick or thin hair which will give the hair more dimension. The foil is then folded to protect the separated hair and be insulate for the lightened/coloured hair to give the desired result. The difference between a highlight and a lowlight is a lightener (Bleach) is used for highlights and colour is used for a lowlight.
Lowlights are a great addition to add more dimension and tone to blonde hair or to darken hair. Clients don’t always have to get a full head of highlights. To avoid over-processing hair, clients tend to go for a partial highlight between and opt-in for a full-head highlight roughly 2-3 times a year. A partial head of highlights ensures that the front and sides of the hair are highlighted, which are common areas that can be seen, more than underneath the hair.
Med-Long Length Haircuts:
Mid-Long Length hair is what we call hair that sits on or past the jawline. This length is usually seen with Bobs, Lobs (long Bobs), Shags, Mullets, long layers, Victoria Secret long hair, ext.
Men’s Styles, Barbering & Pixies:
Choices of Clippers or scissor over comb.
When it comes to really short hair like men’s styles or pixie there are several ways to get to our clients desired result.
Men’s style and Pixies are oftentimes left a little longer on both the sides and especially on the top of the head. These hair cuts are usually created with a technique we call Scissor over-comb (also known as Free handed barbering) and often times clippers are used as well just to bring a tapered edge on the outer hairlines. When it comes to the top of the head, men’s styles usually have more length, shape and texture. This offers the client a haircut that will grow out into different styles and looks throughout the grow out. Clients usually use a softer more pliable product to style the hair, and most clients use the blow dryer to style the hair before using a pomade or cream wax.
For all Men’s style and Pixies, clients usually come into the salon roughly 3-5 weeks.
When formulating a colour for a client’s Root Touch-up the stylist will focus to match the new colour to the mid-length to ensure there is the most minimal demarcation from the new colour to the last colour that was done the previous appointment.
Naturally over-processed hair:
Hair sometimes will feel “over-processed” if the hair has been exposed to lots of saltwater or water with high minerals and excess amounts of sun. In result gives the look of “Beach Blonde” look. Saltwater and mineral water will strip all the oils off the hair and at the same time it will leave the hair feeling dry and looking dull.
Ombré is the French word for ‘shade’ or ‘shadow’ which perfectly explains what it is in the world of hair colouring. Ombré hair usually has a two-toned effect, that is darker on top and lighter on the ends. The top can be coloured darker or the client’s natural base can be kept and the ends lightened with hair lightener.
Open-air or wrapped:
Open-air balayage is usually used when a natural and gradual change is desired. Leaving the lightener to process open-air will weaken the strength of the lightener in turn leaving the hair looking soft and beachy result. Hair that is being Balayaged is often Wrapped in Saran Wrap while hair is processing to help keep everything separate and to get the hair lighter by keeping the lightener from drying up.
A product used mostly with shorter haircuts to stylist the hair to more of a gentle men’s style so the hair is still workable throughout the day. These days there are several versions of Pomades depending on the finished result (wet or dry look) and desired strength (Strong or Soft).
A Root Touch-up is applied on the hair with the desired colour either to match the mid-length colour or the regrowth of grey. To consider what is the root touch up it is 1-2 inches from the scalp, anything longer will be considered an all-over colour.
Cezanne is a keratin hair smoothing treatment that helps strengthen all hair types without any toxic or harsh chemicals. All of Cezanne Keratin Smoothing Treatments are 100% formaldehyde-free ensuring the safety of our clients and stylists.
Stylists and clients want a smoothing treatment that helps heal and strengthen hair without damage or the use of harmful chemicals. That’s why all Cezanne Keratin Smoothing Treatments are 100% formaldehyde-free. We would recommend the Cezanne smoothing treatment to those clients with thick, frizzy, coarse, curly, or unruly hair. With this treatment you will find your hair smoother, less frizz, quicker blow-drying time, improved hair texture, and with repeated use it makes the hair stronger and healthier.
Unlike the traditional straightening treatments, Cezanne allows clients to have to option to style their hair however they want. Depending on how often clients wash their hair Cezanne usually lasts in the hair between 3-6 months, for those clients who wash their hair less will have longer-lasting results. There is absolutely no downtime between the Cezanne treatment and being able to colour/highlight hair; both can be done on the same day. Colour is recommended to be done after Cezanne as hair can lighten during the process. For aftercare, we recommend clients use sulphate free* shampoo, conditioner and styling products. The cost and processing time varies depending on the length and thickness of hair but usually takes between 2.5hrs- 3hrs. All First-time clients will receive a free consultation in order to assess time and cost.
This process is to fast forward your overall look to make a dramatic change, creating a dramatic/ multidimensional colour in one sitting which normally would take 2-3 appointments. This service is an hourly charge due to the level of work and time the stylist puts into the application. Most clients that ask for this service are looking for a big transformation and every strand of hair is coloured to make sure a dramatic look is achieved.
4-6+ hour service depending on the density of hair.
Toner is a product used to correct tones or enhance and personalize each colour service. Toners neutralize brassy tones and help achieve the desired colour. A Toner is 90% of the time needed when doing a lightening service. Depending on how often clients wash their hair, a toner can last about two to three weeks. Toning shampoos and conditioners do help with prolonging colour, but having a professional in-salon toner has more pigment than any silver or purple shampoo and conditioner. Also when consulting with clients your hairstylist will mix a bespoke toner specifically tailored for your hair needs. If a client gets their highlights done every 4 months we would recommend clients to come in after 8weeks for a toner to help keep the highlights fresh. Toner Colours help seal hair cuticles helping the hair retain its strength.
This is explained already but here is the re-write ( Ombré is a French word that translates to “Shadow” or “Shade”. Ombré hair is when the roots of the hair are left natural or darkened, and the mid-length to end of the have is Lightened to the desired colour. The overall look of ombré is a Two-Toned look that gradually goes from dark roots to lighted ends. Depending on how dark the root is there may be anywhere from two to three different colours used to create this melting effect to the lightened ends.
Vivid/ Pastel Colour:
For vivid and pastel colour services to achieve the best results hairstylists would need to pre-lighten hair to very light blonde to apply the Vivid colours. Timing for these services depends on clients pre-existing hair colour. Vivid colours are semi-permanent colour which lay on the surface of the cuticle, we recommend using professional shampoo and conditioner and washing your hair with cold water to get longer results. Using dark towels and dark pillow sheets will prevent any staining.